“…it’s about the journey, not the destination…”

                                                                Summer Trip 2023

The Raine Motel in Valentine NE is an old fashioned Ma and Pa motel. I had a very pleasant night there.

        I pulled out of Valentine by 7:15. My destination was Omaha NE, 330 miles away. On the way I wanted to stop for lunch at a little restaurant in Beemer NE, which I had stopped at for lunch in 2018 on my way back from Alaska. I wonder if the woman who worked there would remember me?

Now I was in agricultural Nebraska. 

        When I first entered Nebraska it was too hilly and rocky for crops. It was a great area to have cattle, but it was just not good for crops. By the time I reached Valentine there were more and more crops. East of Valentine I rode through mile after mile of corn and soy bean fields.

I arrived in Beemer around 11:45 am. I went inside and, after I told her 

my story of 2018 she remembered me!

        I got to Beemer before noon, and went into the cafe with a wooden nickel Mary had given me in 2018. With my story she remembered me. Chris, Mary’s husband, fixed me a nice lunch. As I left Mary told me to come back the next time I passed by. I assured her I would

Lovely downtown Tekamah NE. 

        Riding west on US 275 the closed I got to Omaha the more traffic increased. I decided to take a slightly longer route taking NE 32 to Tekamah, then US 75 south to Blair. Then NE 133 down to Omaha. Tomorrow east to Burlington IA. To get there I would have to ride all the way across Iowa. I need to find some backroads to do this!

Sign on the wall of the Beemer Cafe.

 “…it’s about the journey, not the destination…”

                                                                SUMMER TRIP 2023

Look at the population on Van Tassell WY on the sign in the background.

        The aspect of touring the way I do is that every day I get up, pack up, and see many different things and towns on the way to a destination the I probably have never been before. This makes each day an adventure. When I ride with my college room mates we rent a cabin somewhere and stay there for 3 to 5 days. They usually go hiking and I explore the area. Very different that what I do when on my own. On this trip I stayed in Bozeman MT because I had to get new tires on the bike. I love the freedom I felt, the excitement of discovery of each day since I left. It is so much fun.

I stopped around 10 am to read for a while. It seems silly to me to ride as fast 

as possible through an area without really looking at what is there.

        Today my goal was to ride US 20 out of Casper WY east across Wyoming to Nebraska, continuing on US 20 to Valentine NE. I expected to ride around 330 miles. I had to ride I 25 out of Casper for 30 miles or so as US 20 merged with it. Once on US 20 riding eastward traffic dropped. As usual on the routes I choose there were few cars or trucks. Easy riding. 

Riding east towards the Nebraska border there were still amazing views of rock formations.

         I decided to gas up and have lunch in Chadron NE. By the time I got to Chadron I had just about 200 miles on the tank. The bike has a 6 gallon tank, and took just under 5 gallons. The bike got a little over 39mpg. After lunch at Subway I started heading east towards Valentine. I only had 140 miles or so to go, around 2 1/2 hours of riding, and the entire afternoon to do it. However I would pass from the Mountain time zone to the central, loosing an hour. 

North western Nebraska is not like the strerotype. It is hilly, not flat. 

        As I was riding, at 65 mph in a 65 mph zone, 4 Harley’s, who had been at the gas station where I filled up, came roaring past me probably doing 75 mph. Within minutes they vanished from the road in front of me. Around 45 minutes later, as I was going through a small town, there were these guys, who had been standing around talking back in Chadron, standing around and talking as I rode past them doing 65 mph. By the time I reached Valentine they hadn’t caught up to me. In my opinion, motorcycling is about riding, not talking.

Another scenic view from along the road in Nebraska.

        I got to Valentine around 5:45 pm local time. I gassed up once again, and once again I got 39.2 mpg. I found my motel, checked in and had dinner. Tomorrow US 20 east once again until it meets US 275 which runs down to Omaha. I plan to stop for lunch at the town of Beemer NE, at a restaurant I stopped at in 2018 on the return trip from Alaska, which I did on my BMW R1150 GS. I wonder if the woman who runs the restaurant will remember me? It will be fun to find out.

Rock formations in north western Nebraska.

 “…it’s about the journey, not the destination…”

                                                                SUMMER TRIP 2023

Route 16 just west of Buffalo WY.

        Today was a great example of journey vs destination. Casper WY, my destination for today, is only 114 miles from Sheridan WY by interstate. I rode just a little over 300 miles today. Along the way I would ride an excellent motorcycle road, end up riding about 2 miles in the mud, and then ride one of the best motorcycle roads I’ve seen. THEN have a picnic lunch in a beautiful little park, and ride along a river through an amazing canyon. What a day!

Some of the amazing rock formations along WY 16.

        I got on the road around 8:10. The ride down I 90 to Buffalo was uneventful but pretty. In Buffalo I started to ride to the small community of Saddlestring about 5 miles out of town it turned into a dirt road. The Goldwing, an amazing bike, weighs over 1200 lbs. It is not a dirt bike. Discretion being the better part of valor, I turned around and rode back to Buffalo. There I got on WY 16 west towards Worland. INITIALLY  it was a nice ride. Going up the Bighorn Mountains into a pine forest. Very pretty. 

The very nice park in Worley WY where I had my picnic lunch.

        Riding on 16 through I came across a sign stating road work for 22 miles. The road became a little rough, but no big deal. Since it was Sunday I was pretty sure there would be no work done today. Riding along, enjoying the alpine like view I came across a “pavement ending” sign…..and then no more pavement. It did not become a gravel road. It became a dirt road…which had been rained on over night…turning the dirt into mud. Riding the ‘Wing in the mud is EXTREMELY difficult. I felt the bike slide several times…picking up this bike in the mud is almost impossible. YUCK!

Some of the amazing scenery along US 20 out of Worley toward Shoshone.

        You will notice there are no pictures of the muddy section of the road. I was far too busy keeping the bike moving and  up over the 2 mile stretch of mud. Not my favorite….BUT the reward was an amazing ride down the mountains on the other side. It was fantastic. 

US 20 south of Worley, where it passes through a canyon along a fast moving river.

        I decided to gas up in Worley and get lunch. Right across from the gas station was a Subway. I got a sub and then went to a nice little park and had a picnic. After that the route was all US 20. Down to Shoshone and then over towards Casper. Along the way were some fantastic rock formations. It was 97 miles from Shoshone to Casper. I arrived in Casper by 4 pm, gassed up, and was in my motel by 4:15. Tomorrow on to Valentine NE.

Fantastic view south through the canyon.

 “…it’s about the journey, not the destination…”

US 310 south our of Laurel MT.

        It is so GREAT to be back on the road. Today my goal is to reach Sheridan WY, following a route suggested by my friends from Alberta, Brad and Murray Reid. My route was I 90 E from Bozeman MT to Laurel, then south on US 310 to Lovell WY. Then take US 14 A east over to Ranchester WY, on to I 90 to Sheridan. Brad promised me that the ride on US 14 A was great.

As I rode south on US 310 the town of Frannie WY, self

 declared “the biggest little town in Wyoming”

        US 310 came out of Laurel with US 212. When US 310 split off it became a two lane roadway. Very little traffic. When I arrived in Lovell I gassed up the bike, because I didn’t know what was ahead of me. I also got lunch at a little gas station. The young lady made me a cheeseburger and fries, and delivered them to my table. Very nice people.

The ride on US 14 A was one of the most memorable I’ve had. 

        As I rode out of Lovell there was a sign stating that there were steep climbs 22 miles up ahead. They weren’t kidding. As I rode towards the mountains the scenery was spectacular. I’ve been saying that a lot on this trip. 

The mountains that US 14 A crosses over. Beautiful. 

        The road started to climb into the mountains, and the grades very steep. The scenery was breathtaking, but I needed to focus on the road. Very curvy. There were some rough patches on the road, but it was great motorcycling.

I stopped to read for a while on the way up. You can see my chair on the other side of the bike.

This was the view from my chair. Again, I simply can’t do the view justice.

        On the ride up there were a number of 25 mph curves, but generally a fun ride. The surprise at the top was what a sign called “ The Highlands.” I rode for about 30 miles across this landscape that reminded me of an alpine meadow. It was fantastic. 

The ride down. Unbelievable. 

        The ride up was super. The ride down might have been as good…or better, from a motorcycling viewpoint. As I rode down I passed rock formations that, signs informed my, were 207, 250, 309, 500 MILLION years old. Again spectacular. The road surface on the was down was better, and I could really get into the curves, some reminiscent of the Blue Ridge Parkway, but with greater scenic splendor. Wow.

The rock formations were sensational!

        When I reached Ranchester I had no choice but to get on I 90. A quick ride brought me to Sheridan, my destination for the night. Tomorrow I am going to take a circuitous route to Casper WY. I plan to take a number of “back” roads and explore Wyoming a little. Should be a very nice day.

Another view from the way up. I just wish I was better at photography. 

 “…it’s about the journey, not the destination…’

                                                                     SUMMER TRIP 2023

I had to stop and take this picture of the amazing mountains off to my left. 

        Today I decided to take a ride to White Sulphur Springs and have lunch. My route would be MT 86 out of Bozeman to MT  89 up to White Sulphur Springs. I thought there was a good chance of some mountainous scenery. I was right.

Mountains off in the distance along MT 86.

        When I looked at MT 86 on the map I thought it might be interesting. What I found was that MT 86 was a really good motorcycle road. Some nice curves at times, elevations, some 25 mph curves, and it demanded you pay attention. When I hit MT 89 it was more wide open with a speed limit of 70. Rolling, grass covered hills on either side of  the road with the ever present mountains on the horizon.

The Branding Iron Cafe in White Sulphur Springs Montana.

        Reaching White Sulphur Springs I located the restaurant I had read about. The Branding Iron Cafe was obviously the place where the locals eat. The food was good not pretentious. You could tell by watching the interaction of the servers with the customers they all knew each other. It had a real genuine feel.

The popular place for breakfast or lunch.

        It had been about a 90 mile ride there from Bozeman, so I expected to make it back without filling up. Going in the opposite direction provided a different perspective than I had had on the way up. As usual the run back seemed faster. Back on MT 86 I looked forward to the curvey section and enjoyed it greatly. 

Another beautiful view of the mountains. There are no pictures of the curved 

section because I was too busy riding and enjoying the section to stop and take pictures!

        After I got back to the motel I was out by my bike when a friendly guy walked up. We started having a motorcycle conversation and soon his brother showed up. They were from Alberta Canad and out touring together on their BMW’s. We ended up going out to dinner together and planned a ride for tomorrow. 

My two new friends. 

Sign from inside the Branding Iron Cafe. 

“…it’s about the journey, not the destination…”

                                                            SUMMER TRIP 2023

Montana is amazing. The contrast in geographic features is wonderful.

        Today did not go as planned…the tires on the bike have reached the point where they have to be replaced. No Honda dealer in the state ( 8? ) had both the front and rear tire. I had to ride 200 miles one way to get a rear tire from a dealer in Great Falls MT ( really nice guys! ) so that the dealer in Bozeman can mount the front tire he has and the rear I picked up today on the bike Friday morning. 

Just a sample of the various types of geographic features in Montana.

        The ride to Great Falls would be I 90 west to US 287 north to I 15 north to Great falls. Once I got off of I 90 ( 30 miles west of Bozeman ) there was very little traffic. This was a nice ride through amazing scenery to I 15. When I reached Great Falls I found an Air Force base there, resulting in an impressive city. The people at Sports City Cyclery, the Honda dealer there, were great. They had my tire ready to go and offered to help any they could if I needed them. Nice guys.        

Part of the view at the scenic stop off of I 15.

        If you have been observant  you can see my new rear tire on the back seat of the bike. Using bungee cords I secured the tire to my bike. The whole way back I checked to be sure the tire was secure. I stopped twice on the trip back I stopped twice, once at a scenic overlook and once at a historical marker. My mediocre  attempts to show you some of the diversity of the landscape simply don’t do it justice. It is a beautiful state.

 

Interesting story of the impact of the discovery of gold on this area.

 “…it’ about the journey, not the destination…”

                                                            SUMMER TRIP 2023

Today’s ride on the Beartooth Highway. That is NOT styrofoam 

in the background. Isn’t it August?

        The plan today was to ride US 212 west to the Beartooth Highway, then into Yellowstone, and then on to Bozeman. I did get this done. The problem was that it took so much time to ride the Beartooth and go through Yellowstone that I had to hustle to make it to my motel in Bozeman before 6pm.

Overlook on the Beartooth Highway.

        

        It was around 100 miles from Billings to the Beartooth Highway. I rode west on US 212 from Billings and topped up with gas before riding up to Beartooth Pass. As you ride up towards Beartooth Pass there are probably around 20 turns that are 20mph turns, essentially 180 degree turns. This is not like the Blue Ridge Parkway where you can ride along at a pace…and that’s OK. The scenery is spectacular. You need to focus on riding the bike, you can see incredible views of the mountains as you climb up. There are a number of places to pull over to enjoy the view. That is where you can take in the majesty. Of course there is a place where you can pull over at Beartooth Pass to take pictures. Then you start the ride down.

I am simply not good enough to do the scenery justice. You have to go see for yourself.

        While the ride up is challenging the road surface is great. This is not true on the way down. There is a sign declaring you are leaving Montana, and I guess the road goes into Wyoming. One thing that is clear the road can be rough. The scenery is still spectacular but the road could be rough at times. There are also fewer 20mph curves on the way down. 

The view of mountains, high mountains, that are off in the distance is awe inspiring.

        The road leads you to the town of Silver Gate just outside of Yellowstone National Park. Then you must pay a fee ( thank goodness for my Lifetime Senior Pass ) to pass into the park. When I got into the park I noticed a strong pine smell from the thick pine forest you pass through. Then I rode into the Lamar Valley. Beautiful. You are surrounded by mountains in this wide valley. There some “obstacles” you need to be aware of…buffalo. They roam freely in the park, but here, the the wide expanse of grass to feed on, they are all around you. Traffic moves very slowly, sometimes not at all, as you pass the huge beasts. This can be concerning when you are on a motorcycle. There were a number of times they were just acoss the road on the opposite shoulder, or on the shoulder on my side of the road. Park instructions are to keep you distance from the animals in the park. They are wild animals and can be dangerous if provoked. What provokes a buffalo? The sound of a motorcycle engine or exhaust? The sight of humans on sitting some contraption just 5 feet away? Who knows? 

The Lamar Valley within Yellowstone National Park.

        Let me be clear about this. I did not pull out my phone to take pictures of the buffalo. They are huge, and what kept occurring to me was what would happen if one of these animals “inadvertently” bumped into my bike. I kept both hands on the handlebars and focused on riding the bike. Due to the amount of vehicles in the park, and the number of buffalo this resulted in moving along at 5 to 7 mph for 10 or 15 minutes at a time. Sometimes you would come to a complete stop and start moving in 5 seconds. Very challenging on a bike with a clutch. By the time I got out of the Lamar Valley my left hand was aching! 

The Lamar Valley looking west. The buffalo were just up ahead.

        Due to the traffic and the pace the ride through this part of Yellowstone was not fun. LOTS of fellow tourists. At Tower-Roosevelt I chose to make a right and ride towards Mammoth Hot Springs. Here there were LOADS of people, and vehicles. I made a left making my way towards Norris, and the west entrance to the park. The ride here was more fun, higher with some curves and elevation changes.Once past Norris traffic thinned out and the ride was better. When you pass out that entrance you ride directly into the town of West Yellowstone, where I gassed up. From there it was around 90 miles up US 191 to Bozeman and my motel. On the way I gassed up and got a sub for dinner. When I got to the motel I carried my to the front desk, registered, and then on to my room. I did not leave my room again until 6 am the next morning.

The park service map of Yellowstone. Look at the mileage between places

The park is huge!