Summer Trip VIII

"...its about the journey, not the destination..."

Looking back down US 54 towards Dalhart TX. I was struck by the ruler straight line  of phone poles along the road.

      Dalhart TX to Enid OK. A good part of the day would be on TX 15 into Oklahoma where it turns into OK 15, to Woodward OK. Then on to US 412 to Enid OK. Sounds easy enough. I left Dalhart on US 54 to Stratford TX where I pick up TX 15. This area is all Texas panhandle. Long, straight roads. Agricultural fields, farming wheat or whatever and grazing land for cattle, stretch out endlessly on each side of the road. I have traveling land like this for days, western Missouri, across Kansas, eastern Colorado, then down the Texas. Enormous expanses of land with few trees, unless there is a house, or a town. If there are a fair amount of trees coming up it probably is a fair size town, maybe 500 or 1,000 people. If there is a very large group of trees on the horizon it is probably a big town, maybe even 9,000 people. Just a small clump of trees means a house and the outbuildings of a farm.

I found this fellow along US 54 almot to Stratford TX. Look at what it says on his belt buckle. Big surprise!

     Once off of US 54 and onto TX 15 there is little traffic. Every 30 or 40 miles or so there is a town, many of which have a small gas station with a convenience store. The road is generally in good shape, but since it doesn't get much traffic it doesn't get a whole lot of maintenance either. I stop for my morning break in Gruver TX. Once again I am the only person in the town park.The swimming pool, the tennis courts and basketball courts are empty. I sit in the shade for over an hour and use my MacBook Pro and iPad to catch up on my blog. Beautiful day but warm.

The park in Gruver TX. Beautiful facility but nobody but me using any part of it. 

     Back on the road I go through the town of Perryton (pop. 9,900) and decide to wait until I am in Oklahoma to have lunch. To the east of Booker TX there are two small towns to the border. Once again I am "in the middle of nowhere." Now OK 15 joins US 283 10 miles or so above the town of Shattuck OK, where I decide to get lunch and gas. The gas was easy, but it was difficult to find a local restaurant to have lunch. Just south of town, where OK 15 turns east I see a small restaurant with some cars and pickup trucks parked in front. Lets give it a try.

Ed's Cafe Shattuck OK.

     Ed's Cafe, whose sign proclaims "Shattuck Strong" is the place where the locals eat. They have a lunch buffet every day, but I get a "small" cheeseburger and fries. Needles to say I couldn't finish it all! Back on the road I follow OK 15 to Woodward where it ends. I pick up US 412, and that takes me all of the way to Enid OK.

Notice the amount of "greenery" along the base of this bute. VERY  different from the  Texas panhandle.

     This day has been one of transition. I woke up in the Texas panhandle which was flat and dry, and then as I rode into Oklahoma everything turned greener. There were more clouds in the sky, and it definitely felt more humid. As I rode towards Enid on US 412 I noticed dark clouds up ahead. The road seemed to be heading right for stormy weather. I slowed down. The closer I got to Enid, the darker the sky seemed. I slowed down some more. In the end I was able to get to my motel in Enid without riding in the rain. I checked into the Ramada Inn there around 3:30. I got settled in my room and  relaxed for a while. I must have drifted off to sleep because the next thing I knew I heard thunder and the sound of rain hitting the window. Now that's my idea of dealing with the rain, lounging in my motel room while it storms outside. A pleasant end to a pleasant day.

My lunch at Ed's. Too many fries, but they were great! (no Kate I  NOT  eat all the French  fries.)

Summer Trip VII

"...its about the journey, not the destination..."

Notice the sign on the wall over the sinks in the men's bathroom  in Gunther Toody's Diner.

     Today is the day I am supposed to start to head back. I do have a small problem: I need to get new tires on the bike before I head out. Haden in service promised to get me right in if I showed up when they opened at 9 AM. I went to Gunther Toody's Diner for breakfast, and arrived at Apex Sports by 8:15. The took my bike in promptly at 9 AM, and while I waited I got in to a conversation with Zeke, a young man who had his Ducati 1250 in for service. We talked for quite a while, and I told him if he ever comes east to contact me for place to stay.

Zeke standing outside of Apex Sports in Colorado Springs CO. A very bright, intelligent, interesting guy.

     My bike was finished and I was on the road by 10 AM.  I rode east out of Colorado City on CO 94 until it intercepted CO 71, which I took south. With a small detour just before I got on US 50 east I rode to La Junta where I had lunch. Then I continued east on US 50 to Lamar CO where went south on US 287/385. US 385 would take me through the Oklahoma Panhandle directly to Dalhart Texas where I would spend the night.

Kirk's Kitchen in Springfield CO.

     It had become quite hot, and I really was looking for a place to take a break. I did a search and found a restaurant called Kirk's Kitchen in Springfield CO. Seemed like a good place to gas up and take a break. From Springfield I continued to head south. As I did so I noticed dark clouds on the southern horizon. My route seemed to be taking me directly towards them, right into the middle of them!

At the Texas border with clear skies ahead.

     I crossed into Oklahoma about 20 miles north of Boise City OK still heading straight towards what I was sure were storms on the horizon. As I rode I began to notice wet spots on the road. Apparently the storms were just ahead of me. I slowed down. At Boise City I continued south on US 385, and there was more and more water on the road. Now sure I was catching up to bad weather I slowed down more, looking for places to pull safely off of the road if I caught up to the rain. Then the road took a right turn and I crossed the Texas border. The storms were off to the east and I was able to ride to Dalhart with no further threat of rain.

Afternoon break at Kirk's Kitchen. Don't let my daughters see this picture! 

      Once in Dalhart I checked into my motel and found that it had clothes washers for guests, which many motels do. I took the opportunity to do my laundry, and while it was washing and drying I watched the first Spiderman movie. Later, with clothes strewn about the room to finish drying, I turned in for the night.

Summer Trip V

"...its about the journey, not the destination..."

Dramatic sculptures by some rural artist in Kansas. Look closely at some of the labels on the sculptures. 

     One of the most intriguing aspects of motorcycle touring are the unexpected twists and turns that happen on every trip. You can plan, prepare your bike, make all of your reservations for hotels, and even restaurants, but unforeseen events can throw all of the preparation in the trash. It happens on every trip. On a bike you are vulnerable to rain, snow, heat, cold, flooding, drought, bridge collapses, road closures and many other factors. What matters is how you handle these challenges.

Jeri's Kitchen in Kingman Kansas. Good lunch.

     Another beautiful day. Certainly it would be hot later, but first thing in the morning the air felt cool, refreshing. I was surprised. A simple plan for the day. On this beautiful Sunday I would ride north out of Garden City in an effort to get off of main roads. All of the roads in western Kansas are pretty straight, but some are main transportation routes west and east, while others are a little off the beaten path. My route was north on US 83 to Scott City where I would make a left onto KS 96 towards the Colorado border. Then continue on CO 96 to Eads CO where I pick up US 287 to US 40. West on US 40/287 to Aroya CO where I turn onto CO 94 going west to Colorado Springs. Easy!

Just outside of Scott City KS. Its impossible for me to capture the sheer size of western  Kansas.   

      The bike was running perfectly. The tires were still an issue, but by keeping the speed down, and limiting the exploring, I felt sure I could reach Colorado Springs OK. As I traveled across western Kansas I became amazed at the distances, the agricultural wealth spread out on both sides of the road for mile upon mile. Two years ago I traveled across the US just below the Canadian border from Michigan to western North Dakota. I think you have to travel across America as I am doing to truly appreciate her wealth and majesty.

City park area in Tribune KS. Nobody out and about.

     I took my morning break in Tribune KS. They had a nice recreational facility with tennis courts and a beautiful pool, which no one was using. It was very hot! I called my wife and spoke to her and a friend of hers who was visiting from Arizona. All was right with the world. Only 16 miles to the Colorado border.

The Colorado border along KS 96, soon to be CO 96 towards Towner CO.  The topography was soon to change.

     In this area the eastern part of Colorado was much like the very western part of Kansas. Then, within 8 miles or so of the border, I noticed a change. There was a line on the horizon, and the road did not simply stretch into the distance. I had come to the end of the Great Plains.

Historical marker about the Sand Creek Massacre, and the location of the death of my battery! No shade, about 100 degrees.

     Now within 30 miles of the turn onto US 287 to head north towards Colorado Springs I came upon  a historical marker. Once again, as a former Social Studies teacher, I was forced to turn around and take a look, and some pictures.

A Native American hero who tried to make peace, and  then was killed. 

     The marker told the story of the Sand Creek Massacre where a group of peaceful Native Americans were slain by an overzealous US Army Colonel John Chivington. I took individual pictures of each display so that I could decide which panels to include in the blog. I then got back on the bike and turned the key. The dashboard lit up as usual. Then, when I hit the starter, all the lights went out and complete silence ensued. What the heck? Clearly the battery was dead. Of course it shouldn't be since I'd ridden it every day since the previous Wednesday, for over 1,500 miles. I had put a charger on the bike before I left to make sure I was leaving with a completely charged battery.

History of the area from 1700 to 1861.

     Now what? I was really in the "middle of nowhere" with a completely dead bike. One of the things I carry on the bike is a small "jumper box" that my older daughter got for me one year at Christmas. I feverishly removed the seat, struggled with the side panel to get to the battery and then struggled to attached the clips to the battery posts.  This took several minutes, several attempts ( no shade, baking hot sun, temperature in the neighborhood of 100, the nearest town 5 miles away, a long walk in that heat! ). Finally I got it attached. Turn the key, take a breath, hit the start button. The bike started right up! I quickly put the jumper box away, put the seat on, put my helmet on, and lit out for the next town, Eads CO about 5 miles away.

1861 to 2007.

     Once I got to Eads I stopped at a convenience store/restaurant, left the bike running, went in and asked if a Walmart was there or near there. I was told there was one in Lamar, 30 miles in the wrong direction. I was also told there was "nothing between here and Colorado Springs, " which was over 150 miles away. I tried calling the Walmart to see if they had a battery the would fit my bike, but was left on hold. The bike was running in the heat, and I was just sitting there waiting for someone to answer the phone. I decided just to head towards Colorado Springs. On the highway the bike was running fine, the engine temperature was fine as long as I was moving. What the heck.

Town named for the US Army Colonel who "....led an infamous attack on a peaceful  Cheyenne and Arapaho encampment  on Sand Creek..."

     The next 2 1/2 hours were very stressful. I motored along at about 60-65 mph, listening to the sound of the engine. I felt every vibration of the bike trying to detect the slightest change. I reached Aroya CO and turned onto CO 94, which turned out to be a pretty rough stretch of road, increasing the tension. In that stretch alone it was 72 miles to "services." Another twenty or so miles to Colorado Springs beyond that. My focus became simply to reach the motel where I had a place to sleep, and plan on what course of action to take the next day to get a battery. Believe it or not I made it to the motel without a hitch. A deep sigh of relief. Perhaps the day had been a bit more of an adventure than I would have liked.

Summer Trip IV

"...its about the journey, not the destination..."

     When I plan my trips I choose distances for each day, but this is not written in stone. Typically if I see something interesting I will go and explore. With the state of my tires, and the effect the heat was having on them, this curtailed exploration. Sometimes unexpected factors can have a dramatic impact on the trip, both positive and negative. Once again the unexpected is what makes touring so much fun.

A look in side of the Twisted OZ Motorcycle Museum in Augusta KS.

     I checked El Dorado looking for some neat, local restaurant where the locals gathered every day to have coffee. As I searched on the iPad I could find no such place. Anxious to get on the road I surrendered and did something I usually avoid. I went to McDonald's for breakfast. Guess what I found. There were probably twenty "local" senior citizens sitting in groups of various sizes having coffee and starting their day. In fact this McDonald's had become the "local restaurant people gathered in to start their day." The changing face of America.

Interesting building. The museum has grown into a second building  just to the left. In between a picnic table and some shade,

     I don't like riding through cities, so I rode south out of El Dorado planning to take a long detour south to avoid riding through Wichita. I rode US 54 south to US 400, rode west to Augusta KS and then went south on US 77 on my long detour. As I rode on US 77 I thought about my tires, and the number of miles I had yet to cover to get to Colorado Springs and new tires. Reluctantly I turned around went back 5 miles to Augusta, "girded my loins" for the run through Wichita on US 400.

The bike in the foreground is a Suzuki RE 5 rotary engined bike. My roommate in college, Curtis, had the same bike, but a different year. 

     As I rode through Augusta I noticed a small sign on the left side of the road that said Motorcycle Museum. Glancing at the clock on the bike I decided to go take a look. There were two guys looking in the windows as I got off of the bike. They had also seen the sign and decided to take a look. A glance at the door showed that the museum opened in 20 minutes or so. The other two fellas had to get back on the road, but I decided to stay and take a look. I found a picnic table in the shade and sat down to read for a while.

A beautiful Norton Commando in the foreground, and just to the left you can seen the red gas tank of  a Honda 750 Four,which was the bike that ended the dominance of Harley's and British bikes. 

     At the appointed hour a pickup truck pulled up and a gentleman got out. He turned out to be the curator for the museum. As we sat there and talked a Harley pulled up and that fella joined the conversation. Soon another bike pulled up, this one a 20 year old Honda GB500 TT in pristine condition. Over the next half an hour another couple of guys stopped by to see if there was a ride planned for the day, and what everyone was doing. I sat for an hour and talked motorcycles and motorcycling with these people, and then the curator gave me the tour of the two building that make up the museum. Once again a an absolutely wonderful discovery and experience strictly by chance, meeting really nice people, all of which enhances the trip.

This is an Indian which has a custom built 6 cylinder motor. It was featured in a book which you can see open to the article sitting on the seat.

     The ride through Wichita was no big deal. Although there was construction on the eastern approach to Wichita, its no New York City. I stopped in Kingman KS for lunch, and then continued west on US 400 which would take me directly to Garden City KS for the night. The heat was the main issue. I saw several bank thermometers 100 or 102. The heat was oppressive. I stopped at the small town of Ingalls KS for gas, and bought two bottles of water. One was for me, the other for my shirt. When you get out here shade is at a premium. I found some under a tree just behind the gas station. I took my shirt off and poured the entire bottle of water on it, totally soaking the t-shirt. Putting the shirt on was a shock because I used cold water, but boy was it refreshing! I was delightfully cool as I rode out of Ingalls, now less than 45 miles to the motel. My shirt was totally dry in 15 minutes, but I was refreshed as I made my way to the motel, and my own private air-conditioning. With an I-Hop right next door I walked to dinner and then retired to my room to watch a movie. Tomorrow Colorado!

Summer Trip III

"...its about the journey, not the destination..."

Check out the population of Preston MO.

     Good morning Missouri! Since Oscar's was such a great spot for dinner, I had to return for breakfast. After breakfast I picked up US 54 out of Jefferson City and rode west, towards the Lake of the Ozarks State Park. This area with access to lots of lakes is a summer playground. A large amount of boats, restaurants, shops, and people. It seemed pretty touristy to me, but I get it. With long hot summers  people need a place to relax and refresh. Its just not the type of place for me.

Oscar's for breakfast. GREAT omelet. 

     I stopped mid morning in the town of Eldon to take a break. I found the city park, which also featured a very active swimming pool. It reminded me of when my daughters were young and I used to take them to the outside pool at the University of Delaware. Many happy hours of swimming, reading, and relaxing while some one else took care of the pool. A nice summer activity.

Town park and pool in Eldon MO.

     My goal today was to ride to El Dorado KS. The trip would take me along US 54 the whole way. One thing that became a large factor was the heat. Temperatures in the upper 90s, and I saw a few thermometers the read 100 during the day. The key is to hydrate, stop often, keep the speed down a little. My bike is water cooled, but I didn't want to take any chances.

Just another hot day in Missouri. 

    Before I left on the trip I changed the oil and filter, checked the air in the tires, and checked the brakes. The tread on the tires was marginal, probably 2,000 miles or so left on them. In the intense heat of Missouri and Kansas they started wearing faster. I called Rocky Mountain Cycle Plaza in Colorado Springs CO to see if they had a set of tires in stock. They did not. They referred me to their other shop, Apex Sports, where I spoke to Gary in the parts department. He checked and he did have a set of Dunlop tires that fit my bike. He promised to hold them for me. Unfortunately Apex is closed on Sunday and Monday. He transferred me to service where I spoke to Haden. They opened at 9 AM, and I told him I would be there by 8:30. Early start on Tuesday.

Summer Trip II

"...its about the journey, not the destination..."

The sign painted on a barn along route 46 in Indiana.

     Ok. So the second day of the trip was supposed to be another day on I 70 going west. That lasted until I saw a sign in Indiana for Knightstown, which claimed to be the location of the gym that was used in the movie Hoosiers. As a former high school basketball coach how could I resist? I got off at exit 115 of I 70 in Indiana and went to have a look. At once I was back to the type of motorcycle touring I love. Back roads. Small towns.

The Hoosier gym. Check the sign in the background.

     Unfortunately the gym was closed due to maintenance, but I did get a picture from the outside. If you look closely at the picture you'll see a sign for the gym. While I was there I took advantage of their park in the middle of the town so sit for a while and read.

A drive in theater? Still in use 2019? Welcome to rural middle America.

     This was a 500 mile day, so I had to get going. I navigated along US 40 (the same road that passes through Delaware!) to rejoin I 70. Along the way I passed a drive in theater that is still being used today. In addition, while passing through a small town, I found a diner to have lunch. This is an aspect of touring that I really enjoy. The menu was simple, the food was good, and the people were nice. How much better does it get?

The Crossroads 46 Diner Spencer Indiana, found by chance as I wandered  west. 

     The afternoon on I 70 was a typical ride: lots of trucks and traffic, running along at 70mph, or 75 mph and the need to really stay focused. Across Indiana, into Illinois, and then, finally, into Missouri. Getting around St. Louis was not as bad as I thought it might be. Instead of going through the city, I was directed north around St. Louis, only seeing the famous arch from afar. Then off I 70 at exit 148 where I picked up US 54 to Jefferson City, arriving at my motel by 6:30.

Oscar"s Classic Diner in Jefferson City Missouri. Not exceptional on the outside, but inside wow!  Found by chance. 

     After I checked in I looked on the iPad for a place for dinner, but found nothing I liked close to the motel. I set out on the bike and came across a sign along the highway that mentioned Oscar's Classic Diner. OK, sounds good to me....and it was. Inside a classic diner that featured the Harry Truman Chicken Fried Steak. As a former history teacher I had to try this. Delicious! A 15 minute cruise back to the motel after dinner, and my 660 mile day on the road was at an end.

This poster is on the wall in the men's bathroom at Oscar's. 

Summer Trip I

"...its about the journey, not the destination..."

My 6 year old grandson Charlie standing next to Black Beauty as I get ready to leave for my trip.

     This summer I decided to "...go west young man, go west..." I have ridden all the way to California, and ridden the coastal highway there. Beautiful! However, like many others, I missed a lot along the way. While I have been to Colorado, mostly on interstates, I had never ridden to the top of Pike's Peak. Seems like a plan! Last summer I took my BMW R1150GS, this summer it would be the Honda ST1100, affectionately known as the Black Beauty.

The Eat 'N Park at New Stanton PA.

     Unlike last summer, when I went to Alaska, I didn't think I would have to worry about the cold. I would be dealing with summer heat going out and coming back. For riding gear my rain suit

 would do. I would take a fleece, and a leather vest, but the major thing I needed to take was lots of sunscreen.When riding in hot weather you need to stay hydrated, use lip balm, and lots of sunscreen. Getting sun burned on the first couple of days of a trip can really take some of the joy out of the experience. As I thought about the trip I decided to do two 500 mile days just to "get out there." After that 200 or 300 miles a day. I enjoy riding the old US highways, in and out of small towns, getting a feel for life there. 

Black Beauty looking out through the window in New Stanton.

     The first day I got up at 6, had breakfast at home, said goodbye to my wife, daughter, and my grandchildren. I have developed a habit of giving myself two hours to get up, packed, eat breakfast and get on the road. In this case I was on the road bye 7:45. Today I would be doing a ride I had often done. My in laws lived in Galion Ohio, and my plans were to go past Columbus to Springfield Ohio, about 527 miles on the first day. 

Rest area on I 70 in Ohio. When its hot its important to stop more often to rest and hydrate.

     The first part of the trip took me on familiar roads, 896 to Lancaster, then 283 to Harrisburg PA, then west on the Pennsylvania Turnpike. Again, the idea for the first two days was to get west, out to Missouri. After that little interstate driving. With the 300 mile range of the ST1100 I rode out to New Stanton PA, where I had lunch at the Eat N' Park, and got gas. Then back on the bike, to Wheeling WV, then on into Ohio, past Zanesville, around Columbus, then on to Springfield. Day one, 530 miles or so, at the motel by 6:30 PM. Dinner at a local restaurant, back to the room for some TV, then asleep by 10:30.